Day 1: 5/18/99 -- Houston to Athens

This day has been a long time coming! I left Dallas a few days early to go to my mom's place in Houston to await the day and take care of some last minute details. I was so excited I just couldn't wait! Of course airports are quite anti-climatic... the waiting there is even more excruciating. I picked up a few books for the flight and we hunkered down to wait. Long trip, lots of waiting, some confusion. Airports sometimes seem badly set up (esp Frankfurt). They are often sparing with words when they can afford to be verbose. Frankfurt adhered to odd and seemingly ridiculous rules. On top of that, despite legendary German efficiency, they were late! We met some very nice people though, from all over the world. Airports are some of the best places in the world to observe people... We are all crammed into a small space, stretched to the breaking point. Everyone wants to be somewhere else than where they are now. I sat next to an old German woman on the plane (well it was Lufthansa). She celebrated her 65th birthday during the flight and the stewardess brought some champagne and snacks, which was sweet. The stewardess was from the same town as the german woman, so they chatted for a bit. She (the older german woman) had a lot to say. Her family was killed in the war by British air raids. She said they would also drop poisoned candy and toys that exploded. In her part of the country there is still a lot of resentment towards the British (and to some extent Americans). It obviously takes two sides to make a war; what do they think the Germans were doing to the British all that time. Somehow the enemies acts are atrocities and the allies acts are necessary, even heroic. She was terribly racist (esp about Mexicans, she lives in New Mexico) and unapologetically so. She claimed that Mexicans purposefully made her life difficult, by doing everything slow on purpose, or screwing stuff up on purpose. She warned me to "watch out for them." I guess she expected me to agree with her. She also either forgot or didn't listen well because she asked me the same questions multiple times and got her facts messed up. But on the other hand, a few hours later I couldn't even remember her name, so I guess I didn't pay enough attention either. We were pretty excited but pretty tired when we got here (Athens International Airport). We took a bus that assumably went to the area of our hostel but had to wander a bit (with full luggage) to our hostel. To make matters worse, the same same street may have different names, (like Waterview/Independence), but we got there. My roommates (here in the Athens International Youth Hostel) are two Australians and a Canadian. I talked to one of the aussies for about an hour. He seems very much like all the descriptions of australians I've heard: buoyant, cheerful, outdoorsy, etc. Also, somehow the focus of young people is not on education. The aussies I met that were educated chose quite different fields than your average american/european. Most of them tried to get degreed in outdoor things, like land surveying. He was very nice though, not a contrary word. Had been here (in Europe) for 5 months, and in Greece for 5 weeks. In the beginning of his travels he didn't think he was really going to enjoy it (one might ask why he went in the first place) but he said he really has warmed to it and is making plans for even more adventurous trips, the africa, south america, and asia.

Day 2: Friday, May 20, 1999 -- Athens

Spent all day in the Plaka/Syntagma (the area surrounding the Acropolis). First the flea market in Monastiraki, which is quite crowded, even though the peak day is supposedly Sunday. While in the flea market we came across a luthiers store. He spoke almost no English but we communicated OK. His side of the communication seemed to be a prepared english speech, which nothing could make him swerve from. For my part I tried to ask him questions about the instruments, which he mostlt did not understand. He was precious in an old codgery way. His name was Kevorkian and he was medium famous. He showed us his name/picture in local and international papers and an entry in guide book recommending him place, obviously very proud of his work. I plan on coming back tuesday to buy a small bouzouki, which is similar to a mandolin. His sound very nice and are very small. We then worked our way (slowly) to the Acropolis. Like Athens, it was poorly described to me: I wasn't really expecting much from it. It truly was awe inspiring. The impression of former grace and ornamentation was incredible. It has an incredible view of sprawling Athens from the summit, and commands more of a presence from below than atop the hill. Somehow I knew it was something that you are supposed to see and be awed by, but I really wasn't prepared for how much it dominates that part of Athens from all sides. After reading the above, I don't think I've properly described it either. You'll just have to see it for yourself... The haze from smog here is terrible. The cars are old, everyone smokes, the people are abrupt and insistent, the city streets oddly layed out, the traffic is crazy. These are all things I knew before, but now I know that they are part of Athens, and it wouldn't be the same without them. It is somehow part of the charm. American cities are so hierarchically arranged, with their "downtown" and suburbs, etc, but Athens is all on the same "level". Banks, apartments, restaurants, stores, etc are all packed in everywhere. The whole city seems to be "downtown." The distribution seems even enough so that you can always find what you need close by. But finding some special thing in some other part of the city must be impossible! In particular, taxi drivers never seem to know where anything is. There is a definite art to getting a taxi here... we have yet to really pick it up I guess.

Day 3: Friday, May 21, 1999 -- Athens

We walked to (and climbed) Lykavittos hill today. It is about the highest point in the area, much higher than the Acropolis. You actually have to climb quite a bit just to reach the base of the hill! From there we took a "funicular" train to the top. The walk was strenuous but the view was incredible. Even when you get off the funicular, you have to climb a bit. There was an older australian couple on the funicular with us (we were the only ones). They were apparently retired and taking a tremendous trip, through Greece, Jordan, and Egypt. They were on a package tour, but a REALLY long one. I think it was probably the right choice for them, much as it would be the wrong choice for me. At the top is a small white catholic chapel and bell tower. As soon as you get to the top you are awed by the view all around you. Also immediately, some fellow tries to take your picture a few times. We went along with it, not really "getting" it, until he asked for some money and told us he would mail us the pictures (he wasn't wise enough to use polaroid). We declined but felt a little bad for making him waste his time and film. As soon as we walked on we saw him target someone else. I wonder if he makes a good living doing stuff like that. There was a decently steady flow of people... but most of them weren't buying. Found a neat little ouzery on the way down, although we discovered that we don't really care much for ouzo (folks in the ouzery were certainly tossing it down, though). At night, we ate at "Socrates Prison", a neat place that took us forever to find. We were fooled by veiled references on a map to Socrates Prison (probably the real prison, not the restaurant) and the lack of the street name on our map. So we learned a new navigation technique: ask someone which direction to go, and how far. Then go about 100 yyards and ask someone else. Keep doing this until you find it. You sort of zero in on it this way. Saw the light show, which was sort of a waste of time, if you ask me. They turn some lights on around the acropolis, and play a tape of this cornly dialogue between some ancient citizens of Athens. The script was written by a frenchman, no less. In the evening in my room, I talked with Bulgarian living abroad for about 3 years. Very interesting opinions about communism/capitalim. If what he says is true the whole yugoslavia thing is crap (i.e. there are dozens of similar incidents that need addressing, but the US and Nato just pick this one incidence to save the people). His claim is that US news in general is making Greece look dangerous at this time, to keep tourism down (as a reprisal for Greece's non-compliance with NATO wishes). He also explained that the bombing of Kosovo affects all nations in the region, not just Yugoslavia. The river is untraversable since bridges have been reduced to rubble, and Yugoslavia is sort of a gateway for commerce to the near parts of Western Europe. He'd like to go to America but this is practically impossible, like me going to Saudi Arabia. He'd need to show $10,000 plus guaruntee from a US citizen, etc.

Day 4: Saturday, May 22, 1999 -- Athens to Delphi

Getting to Delphi was pretty easy but uncertain. We had to resort to asking for lot of help which I hate... What if they misunderstood what I was asking for? This kind of thing is much more difficult in a foreign country, where you can't read the schedule, signs, tickets, etc. It's just more strenuous. Also I may have to ask on the way back because I don't have the benefit having worked it out myself. But enough said. Delphi (the site) is beautiful. We haven't seen much, just a glimpse, but it's stunning. I saw the museum (for free, there didn't seem to be anyone selling tickets or keeping track of the entrance). Mom was reading something and I just walked in. Then they wouldn't let her in, not even to look for me (I had the money!) I plan on taking 4x5 photographs tomorow while she visits the museum anyway. The museum was so-so. There was some great stuff, like a huge stone griffin, part of a huge column, partial friezes, etc) but there was a lot of crap (really small pieces of larger works, or barely legible inscriptions, etc). There were some items which were nothing more than stone blocks which used to contain legible writing, for really exciting things like song lyrics, or lists of people. The mountains around delphi are great. The valley in front of the archeologicaal site is soothing and we sat for a while. There is a dirt road that leads into it, which we would have liked to explore, but it was "occupied". A (greek?) man was laying out orange painted plates fullof (sugar?) water to attract butterflies (he had a net). Some did come by, but appaantely nothing worth catching. We left soon after, so mayber he got something good. There were loads of olive trees in the valley, also. Some seemed to be naturally occuring, but others were laid in neat rows. The patches of rows seemed small though, hardly large enough to make any real profit off. In any case, it is difficult to figure out how they harvest these remote olive farms... Delphi (the modern town) is pretty OK. Very touristy but if you walk 2 streets over you see the places where the greeks live. This is te first place where we've seen what I would call greek houses (white bricks with brightly painted shutters and doors) Streets are connected by steep stairs and narrow streets, but the climb is worth it. Every street to the north takes you about 20 meters higher in elevation. You can see out into the valley where there is a lake or something. [Note, found out this is the Gulf of Corinth] We walked for a few hours and then came back to our quaint hotel room (10 rooms in hotel, door has huge old key). We took a nap from 7 to 9 or so an went out for a so-so dinner (expensive though: $30 for 2). Athens was cheaper and the food was just as good. Ironically, the spanakopita I had in the bus station is as good as any I've had anywhere else here ($1 for a generous slice)

Day 5: Sunday May 23, 1999 -- Delphi

After a pretty mediocre breakfast at the Hotel Athina, where we are staying, we moseyed over to the archeological site. Mom went in to go to the bathroom (so I thought) and there was a replay of yesterday (I waited for her without her knowing I was waiting). It was OK though. I met some older women from Houston and watched the animated Greek families (who can't talk witout sneering and waving their hands). We tried to get into the site during the main rush, in a huge press of people. They don't form lines here, just big slow moving crushes of people but I eventualy got my 1200dr ($4) ticket and went in. The first bit was a little disappointing, but it picked up. The way you see Delphi is you start at the bottom and slowly ascend. You can't much see what comes next, things just sort of appear above you. The Athenian Treasury and the Sanctuary of Apollo are excellent. The first is almost whole and shiny marble. The second is partial but you really get the idea of the whole, and it's pretty impressive. Higher still (climbing as we go) is the theatre which is pretty. A MUCH higher climb is the colsieum, which is sagging, overgrown, and quite charming. I was taking some view camera pictures there when I was informed I needed a liscense ($100). I think the guard thought I had a TV camera or something. [Note: I found out later you need a liscense to even use the tripod] We worked our way back down, discovering some new things, and took a break. By this time the tourists were done with their 30-minute lookabouts and the place was more comfortable. Few made the climb to the coliseum (fewer still with 30 pounds of photo equipment). This all took place from noon to about 5pm. We took a break at a quaint little snack place with a great view into the valley and headed on to the Sanctuary of Athena (?) down the road a bit. Spent about an hour there viewing some iteresting remains. The columns were mostly reconstructed but at least we got a good idea of what it looked like before. We spoke with a guard/curator at this place who was very friendly and we talked for 20 minutes or so, about Greece, Delphi, his job (he worked there for 13 years). In contrast to the brusque, rude seeming workers at other places, he was very pleasant and eager to talk with visitors. We saw him chatting with other small groups in the shade of some ancient tree, smoking all the while. Dinner was nice in another litle taverna. The baklava was light and lemony and mom's tirra misu was pretty good. I had stuffed zuchinni and mom had some grilled sausage. The italian food in Delphi is actually quite passable. We also found some Retsina we like and we want to take some home. Starts with a B. [Note: Boutari]

Day 6: Monday, May 24, 1999 -- Delphi

Today we rented a taxi for the day from a nice old man named Theodotus (we think: he didn't speak much english). He drove an ancient grey mercedes taxi which was only slightly less ancient than himself. I feared at first that he would have a heart attack and drive off the road, or something, but everything went slowly. Luckily that taxi was not capable of the breakneck speed everyone else in greece seems to use. First we visited Ossias Loukas, an old monastary near Distomo. There were a few very friendly monks there who smiled and nodded whenever you made eye contact with them. There was a young man who apparetly worked on the grounds and tried to strike up a conversation with us. His english was basically limited to newspaper headlines apparently, because he said words like "Bill and Hilary Clinton", "Monica Lewinsky", "Stealth", "Kosovo", etc. He seemed to think america was bad, but in a good natured way. He was not at malevolent. After about 1 hour at the monastary we took a beautifal mountain road down to sea level to visit Itea. It was ok, but not great. We decided to press on to Galaxidi, which was nicer, and actual fishing type village. It was getting along in hours so we had to depart. We wished we could have skipped Itea in favor of Galaxidi, but how could we have known? They both looked pretty quaint from our perch at Delphi. Mom went shopping afterwards and I addressed post cards for all the folks at home (that I had addresses for). We ate a fabuloius pizza cooked in a wood oven and retired early so we could catch the 9am bus to Athens.

Day 7: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 -- Delphi to Athens

As much as I hate to admit it, Athens is pretty poor when you come back from another place. It seemed bad compared to Delphi. We walked down to Plaka and purchased me a Bouzouki, which was quite an experience. The old man was Kevorkian from the flea market. He was 87, and seemed to imply he had 5 bypasses. The woman who helped translate last time I was there was apparently his daughter, an American citizen. Mr. K himself had been to Houston for his bypasses. We neotiated of sorts for 45 minutes or so. He pointed out all of the amazing qualities of the bouzouki, showed me that he was giving me a great deal (25% off!), etc. Admittedly I was too impatient, but after all people here do business so slowly. We payed the man and went out into the market. He suggested that I hold the instrument very tightly so an Albanian wouldn't steal it... (himself a foreigner of some sort). We went to see the Agora but sadly it was closed as we were too late. We wandered about a bit and ended up in Syntagma at the McDonalds across the street from Parliment. We bought the english language paper and browsed while watching people. No one was eating food... Everyone bought a soda and kept their spot FOREVER, chatting with friends or just sitting. Public loitering is something of an art form in thia country. Went to the airport LATE (2am) to see mom off. We kind of wasted the day traveling and waiting to travel. It's a pity her last day had to be like that, but there wasn't anything to do with the time we had. In hindsight, we should have hurried to see the archeological museum together, since I think she would have enjoyed it.

Day 8: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 -- Athens

I've decided it's time to move on... Things were sort of hard to figure in Greece so I figure I'll need the extra time in Israel and Egypt anyway. So tomorrow I'm flying to Tel Aviv, Israel. Would have taken the ferry but it doesn't leave until monday! [Note: I found out later that it also takes 3 to 4 DAYS] Just exited the archeological museum... Extremely large collection of artifacts. Surprising amount of prehistoric stuff, plus a few rooms of egyptian artifacts. I wonder if Greece sees the irony of their owning foreign artifacts while clamoring for the return of the Delphic marbles from England. I wonder if Egypt wants this stuff back? The prehistoric stuff really made me think. Even in that period of time, there seemed to be a preoccupation with ownership of items, to the point that they buried them with the dead. Where did this come from? Also, from where did the urge to ornament come from? Is it copying of nature, or some urge built into humanity? I didn't see the whole museum. In fact, I think I skipped a wing. The place is huge! I walked here from Omonia (maybe 500m) but walked much more than that insde the buildng. I also just payed twice as much for a coke as I payed for my lunch (lunch was $2, coke was $3.50!) I walked about a bit today, saying goodbye to the city. It really is starting to grow on me again. I walked about aimlessly, half looking for a movie theatre, half looking for an internet place, all looking. I ate at a mcdonalds, despite my claims that such a thing would be silly. Somehow I ended up a little south and east of the acropolis. I pretty much just kept walking until I saw a street I recognised, then I followed it (it was Ermou, north of Plaka) Did not see a movie theatre (unless you count pornography). Got a paper and went back to the hostel to rest. Went searching again for a bookstore. Found one, closed. Found and internet place that opened only 5 days ago. Pretty cheap, and quite close to the hostel, so I caught up on email. Found a movie theatre on the way and decided to see "Analyze This". I'm waiting outside for it now. It it'll hopefully be English with Greek subtitles! [Note: it was in english, but I misread the sign. Analyze This was playing next week, this week was a movie I had already seen, Mercury Rising]. There are dogs and cats everywhere, mostly apparently homeless. They are all docile, harmless and friendly. Petting a dog will earn you a companion for an hour, and the cats will respond in their kind. I saw some kittens and a mother today outside the archeological museum. An old greek woman fed them some food. I don't know if she had the food for them or just cats in general, but she had several cans worth, some opened, in plastic bags, and some closed. The kittens/mother looked well fed. They have a prime spot! The dogs are usually in pretty bad shape, with worn patches of fur, etc. They are uniformly large dogs: labradors, german shepards, etc, and mostly short haired. Someone told me that greeks often set their pets free when they go on vacation (and apparently collect the pets when they get home) There is almost NEVER any barking, mean-spirited or otherwise.