| Day 8: Thursday, May 27, 1999 -- Athens to Tel Aviv | ||||
El Al (The Israeli airline) is brutally secure. They don't do anything
special or high tech, any other company could do as well, but most
people simply would not permit it! They asked me questions for
perhaps 25 minutes about where I had been, where I was going, how much
money I had, etc. Then they completely searched me and my bags,
x-raying every item individually, including my shoes, soap, camera,
computer, tripod, etc. Of course they made me open everything. This
took another 30 minutes. After a VERY hasty packing of the bag (and a
poor one at that) I got on the plane for the short 2 hour journey. At
the arrival gate I had to answer more questions and fill out a form (which I was
apparently already supposed to have).
I went to wait for a bus and realized I was missing a bag. I rushed back, only to find it impossible to get back into the terminal. You absolutely can not go back in the way you came out! You have to stand by a window and ask someone to look for your things. Luckily they found it, and I was required to go through customs again, complete with metal detectors, etc. The bus came an hour later and of course everything was horribly confusing. I was riding with a young woman I met at the bus stop in Greece and together we worked our way to the hostel about 10 blocks away. This one is not as good as the last (although the brochure looked quite nice). It is about 10 people to a room (coed) and there are no places to lock my valuables up. The showers are down the hall and I had a pretty hard time getting hot water so I just took a cold shower. | ||||
Checked the rates for shipping at the post office. It takes about 1
month to ship by air and costs 150 shekels which is about $50 (that's
for 5 kilos though). I may ship the bouzouki back as it is pretty
tough to travel with. [Note: this turned out to be almost impossible,
as I had to have it in a shipping container (the case doesn't count). So
I carried it for the rest of the trip].
It's much hotter here than in Greece and I may already have a slight burn from walking 30 minutes. We'll have to see how that develops, I'd really like to get by without constant sunscreen usage. I'm already pretty tanned from Greece so maybe I'll be OK. The television here appears to be state run. There are no commercials and the programming seems pretty random. [Note: this turned out to be Israeli cable programming, the normal TV has plenty of commercials, and much less US programming]. | ||||
I talked to some Korean guys today... they worked in a kibbutz for
some months. They got tired of that area are trying to go to england
(also to work). The rate here is 15 shekels an hour (for real work)
which is about $5. These guys are doing crap work, like construction,
washing dishes, etc, and they are waiting in line for these jobs. Not
great compared to the US, but apparently much better than Korea. The
kibbutz payed basically only pays a few hundred shekels a month
(spending money) but you stay/eat for free. He was very interested in
practicing his English so we talked quite a bit. I got some free tips
about Israel (Tel Aviv in particular), and I will check those out soon.
| ||||
| Day 9: Friday, May 28, 1999 -- Tel Aviv | ||||
Apparently McDonald's is the international sign for "bathroom" because
there is a bathroom in every one (usually on the top floor). In Tel
Aviv bathrooms seem quite scarce and oddly no one knows where any are.
A sign pointing the way is misleading: the bathroom may actually be on
another floor... in a different building.. a half mile down the road.
The actual bathrooms are better than Greece though (at least in Tel
Aviv). I'm sharing the room with about 1/2 dozen Koreans and 1/2 dozen
Swedes. Interesting mix. They get on just great, actually. They are
each planning on visiting the other country, or at least say they are.
Sleeping here is hard because there are so many people, and activity on
the street below until late. As a result I got up pretty early (same
time as the Koreans). Imagine my surprise when I a stepped out of the
shower and saw a young woman brushing her teeth! The bathrooms are
apparently coed, also. Everything has doors, but it's a little odd.
"Breakfast" was some really fake strawberry jelly on some pretty good
bread (coffee if you could find a container, so there were lots of
folks drinking from bowls). Lunch yesterday was a salad the size of
my head (and 40 shekels too). As mentioned in the books, the food is
fresh and clean, and filling, but not especially tasty or cheap
(except falafel).
| ||||
| It is REALLY hot today. I just stopped for some refreshment. It must be over 100 degrees with humidity around 80%. I am sweating like a dog. As in Greece, almost everything is self serve here. Get your own drink, seat yourself, etc. This is nice: it lets me examine beverages before making my selection, and pick my own table, etc. It is also somewhat confusing, since prices and portions are rarely available and descriptions are non-existent. Most menus and some numbers are in Hebrew... I just had a delightful concoction: in a pita, there was fries on top, then falafel, then vegetables (cucumbers, tomatoes) The sides and bottom of the pita were lined with a thick layer of hummous; VERY good! I am glad I have found some cheap places to eat. The above with a sprite was only 16 shekels (less than $5). I am now really full and ready to move on. | ||||
OK, I made a big mistake... I have been wandering for hours, just
looking around, and have just discovered that I am more than 5 miles
from the hostel. I've been walking around for more than 7 hours today
so I figure I've already walked at least 15 or 20 miles! I'm pretty
beat so I think I will break down and get a taxi. Whew! I've just
been advised that I "couldn't possibly walk there from here". I
didn't insult the guy by telling him that I'd walked much further
already today. Finally got home. Wussed out and took the bus. It
was still more than a mile to the bus stop and a half hour wait but
better than walking 5 miles! I need to find someone to travel with.
Traveling alone has disadvantages. I am too impatient with some
sights and leave before I am really done. Later I am a little bored
with not enough to do. Also I will have no pictures of myself! I met
someone in Greece that maybe I can go with... I don't really know how
to broach the subject. Other people seem to form some instant bonds.
I can't see what I am doing differently but these guys are just
acquaintances to me.
| ||||
| Many things shut down tonight (sabbath starts at sundown). I had trouble finding a good cheap meal but finally found a cafe that had a nice pesto sandwich and decent cappucino. I wish I could enjoy such experiences like the Greek and Israelis but I am really too impatient. I am sure that I am "rushing" the waiters... I have never had one bring me my bill without asking. I queried my dorm mates about this, but most of them do not eat at cafes or restaurants. I think many of them miss many good things from lack of money (and they drink too much) | ||||
I've come to the realization that American people are fat. We eat too
much! The contrast is really striking here, where the population is
svelte and generally more attractive than average. You can always spot
the Americans (they are mostly a little overweight). Most other
countries do not serve huge portions, drink soda with meals (The
Koreans and Swedes find such a thing to be hilarious), have snacks
between meals, eat when they are not hungry, etc. I hope to lose some
weight here. Many have told me they lost 10 to 15 pounds from the
added exercise and healthier diet [Note: I lost a little over 20
pounds!]. I drink about 1 soda a day now (it is expensive and not
very satisfying) with lunch or whatever. There are no refills. Oddly
beer costs no more than soda... I am drinking loads of water of course,
which is pretty expensive compared to the US, but absolutely necessary. I
usually carry 2 1/2 liter bottles with me that I refill as I go.
| ||||
| Day 10: Saturday, May 29, 1999 -- Tel Aviv | ||||
I've decided to stay another day, which is good because otherwise I'd
be forced to travel by Sabbath! Everyone I've met here is different
than me in their traveling scheme... Most of them have been on a
kibbutz, and decided to stay on a bit longer... they are mostly
seeking work, and are no longer really interested in seeing sights,
etc. They live like I might live at home, amusing themselves with TV,
talking, pool, the beach, etc. It's just in a foreign country. Some
of them are working to get money for further trips.., the the UK, the
US, etc. Also my plans are far from unique.., most of these people have
either been to, or are going to Egypt, Turkey, and Greece. It's a
little disappointing, but they can also offer much advice (much of it
contradictory). I've gotten lots of great tips about places to stay,
how to travel, etc.
| ||||
| Day 11: Sunday, May 30, 1999 -- Tel Aviv to Jerusalem | ||||
| Left early this morning for Jerusalem. Of course, since it is Sunday, there are tons of IDF soldiers traveling. They travel for free, and while I was there they cut in line terribly. Busses come every 20 minutes, but they filled up fast and I was there for more than 1 hour waiting. I finally crammed myself onto a bus and had t stand in the well by the door. I was not getting off that bus! I had already put my bags in, dammit! | ||||
When I arrived I took a short walk through the souq to buy a pair of
shorts to swim with, and grabbed a nice falafel somewhere near there.
The man at the falafel place had lived in America for several years
(running a falafel truck) and he and I and a young woman from Holland
talked for an hour or so. He had lots of postcards on his wall from
people he has met all over the world. I wish I wasn't so lazy, so I
could promise to send people things (and actually do it). Then I came
back and slept for 2 hours! I spent the rest of the evening wandering
around near Jaffa Gate, where the hostel is (Petra Hostel, 21
shekels/night) I'm going to Masada at 3:30am tonight to catch the
sunrise there. So although it is only 9:30 I will go to bed soon. I
feel a little sick anyway.., probably something I ate!
| ||||
| Day 12: Monday, May 31, 1999 -- Jerusalem | ||||
Did the Masada - Dead Sea - En Gedi thing today. Not long enough at
Masada, too long at En Gedi... The climb to the summit of Masada
nearly killed me, what with the camera stuff and tripod and all...
When I finally made it to the top, I was too tired to do a whole lot
of poking around. I looked around a bit but not really enough. Maybe
next time... En Gedi was really unimpressive. It is a neat little
oasis, but there is not much to do/look at, you just climb around.
After Mass-Ada none of us was that interested in climbing around. The
Dead Sea was great! I knew in advance how well people float in it, but
actually doing it was another thing altogether! Getting in/out was
problematic since the "beach" is sharp rocks followed by huge salt
crystal structures, which is not comfortable barefoot. We then rode
around taking pictures which was OK but not great. When I got back
at 2p I immediately slept for 2 hours. When I awoke I strolled about
a bit. I found a second-hand bookstore in the Jewish quarter and
browsed a bit until I found 2 books that looked good. The books are a
real godsend; most things close down early here, and there's not too
much to do until it's time to sleep. The guy had internet too so I
wrote some more emails and took care of some business with the ACT
lab.
| ||||
| Day 13: Tuesday, June 1, 1999 -- Jerusalem | ||||
I've had the same conversation at least 3 times with the man who runs
the hostels front desk at night. He asks how I liked Masada, I tell
him. He asks me where I'm from, I tell him. He tells me there's a
girl in the hostel from Austin that I should talk to. He tells me
he's from Indiana but lives in Florida, etc. We talk about Greece,
and he thinks the exchange rate is 4000 drachmas to a dollar. I
correct him (it's more like 300). A few hours later, or the next day,
the same thing again. The third time he remembered that he had
already talked to me... like, "Oh, yeah, you're that guy from Dallas"
but the conversation plods on anyway. Quite odd. What's that disease
called? Korsakov's?
There is a Chilean guy living in the hostel (who oddly enough speaks with a French accent). We've talked on several occaissons now... He believes there will never be peace here as long as there are religious Jews, Christians, and Muslims living here. I'm inclined to agree. The Dome of the Rock seems a horrible travesty to me... the Jews and Christians both have legitimate claims to the holiness of the city, but the Muslims just sort of "decided" that the Temple Mount is the place where Mohommed descended to heaven on a winged horse... This is the complete basis for their claim to Jerusalem. | ||||
I've just finished half of the walk of the city walls... I'll have to
go back to Jaffa to get to the rest. The walk was pleasant and cool
(9am to 10:30am). Many of the places along the way are completely
covered with trash, which is unfortunate, or human excrement, which is
pitiful. Unfortunately, the wall does not really pass by any sites of
interest; there is housing on the inside, and city streets on the
outside. Occasionally there are cemeteries outside around the Arab
quarter. I am resting above the place that it is believed that Mary
was born. I have a little trouble feeling reverent... it is cramped,
mildewed, and a little contrived. Like similar sites, though, it
doesn't matter if this is the "actual" place: the point of such a
monument is to remind you of what the actual place stands for.
Fucking bastard tour guide... picked me up at station I of the stations of the cross, wants to know if I want to see the rest. I say, sure, assuming 50 to 80 shekels as a fair price. He leads me for 30 minutes and then demands 250 shekels! I protest, he says I should have asked the cost ahead of time... I gave him 150. Still way overpaid. The way people here do business makes me sick! Most other places in the world, you leave happy. You may be getting screwed, but at least you don't know it. I can't imagine that repeat business is possible here since everyone is disgruntled by the time they are done. | ||||
| The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is quite beautiful on the inside, but most of the relics seem a little ridiculous. For example, there is a chapel of Adam inside, which is supposed to hold the "Skull of Adam". They have no real reason for believing that it was actually Adam's... Also, much of th relics/sites were determined by Constantine's mother, who is far from an authority on such things... | ||||
Got lost after leaving Holy Sepulcher... Wasn't really paying
attention. Actually you can never really get lost in the old
city... Just walk in one direction until you get to the city wall or
some obvious landmark, like one of the patriarchs. Somehow, after
wandering for about 25 minutes I ended up back at Jaffa ! So I will
retrieve my book (which I left at the hostel) and determine where to
go next (maybe I will walk the rest of the wall, if there is time,
from Jaffa to the Dung gate. Other things of interest in my travels
today:
St. Anne's Monastery/Bethesda Pool: This has several "layers" of civilization, from Byzantine to Roman to Middle Age stuff. Mostly Bethesda was collection pools and cisterns to hold water. These are the waters where Jesus healed people (and made the Jews quite upset). They are all empty now except for the Roman Cistern. There is also a monastery but looking around inside is discouraged. Via Delorosa: The path Jesus took on the way to his crucification. All 14 "stations of the cross" are marked, like Jesus falling with the cross, etc. The route seems a bit contrived but I guess that's OK. The thing I object to is the presentation of it as fact. | ||||
| Day 14: Wednesday, June 2, 1999 -- Jerusalem | ||||
| I talked at great length last night with extremists of various kinds. First I witnessed a discussion between a Christian and a man belonging to an of shoot of Judaism (Servant of Yaweh, he is one of 5 members) I must say I did not side with the Christian. The passages that were read seem to imply that the Jewish laws are a requirement for salvation and the Jesus did not in fact fulfill the prophecy of a messiah (not having met some conditions of the prophecy). This is supposedly the basis for the rejection of Christ as the son of god by the Jews. I was also surprised to learn that many of the Jewish observances are not explicitly biblically based. I ought to have written down these passages but it did not occur to me. | ||||
| Next I spoke to some Israeli "hippies" I guess you would call them. One was blind and a little deaf the other was his companion I suppose. We spoke at length about America (where the blind one had lived) and Israel. They had some very interesting opinions about the body, like that healing could occur by will, etc. Standard stuff (for hippies) really but not what I expected from Jews. They appeared to be permanent travelers, roving from country to country but returning home for a while. They seemed genuinely interested in what I had to say, which is very refreshing in zealots, and although I wouldn't say I had changed their minds on anything, I also do not believe that they dismissed what I said without contemplation. My main contribution in this regard was about he reason I wished to travel to move on with my life. Lee can attest to this as well, as he is probably the first person who voiced something like this to me: comfortability is a cause of discontent. When life is too easy small things are big problems. I think this is the origin of many religious injunctions to divest yourself of worldly goods. This is not to say that poverty is happiness... in fact I don't think it's about property although that certainly is part of it. It's more about routine and ritual. Property is tied up in this, since it is routine (work) that gives material possesions. My submission to the place I am traveling to is almost complete. I have no control in this city or any other and I don't expect any. In this I am able to enjoy whatever passes my way. But enough of this. | ||||
At the Temple Mount: Just entered, and exited, Al Aska Mosque. This
is the first place in the "holy land" that inspired me with the
magnifigance that a place of worship should have. The other
(Christian) places are dank and dark, old and musty. This place is
grand, with huge marble pillars, 30 foot tall entrance doors. The
floor is covered with a mosaic of woven rugs. The windows are mosaics
of stained glass (abstract and geometrical). The ceiling is an
intricate pattern of octagonal carvings, arches and pillars. Birds
sing from the painted wooden rafters. It is a place of silence and
peace. There is somehow an air of scholarship and reverence to the
place, the whole temple mount. I can picture Socrates lecturing here
among the cedars and broad walkways... I feel like an intruder but not
enough to want to leave.
| ||||
| The Dome of the Rock is even more stunning. The name is quite misleading... it brings to mind a rough-hewn dome. In fact it is a sanctuary that houses the rock that Muslims believe is the site where Mohammed Ascended to heaven. The decoration is so intricate that it cannot be examined, you can see the whole but not the parts. I stayed inside for more than one hour, until they closed the place at noon. Even the outside is more ornamental than anything I have ever seen. | ||||
| Climbed the mount of Olives. The amount of graves there is truly amazing... Some Jews believe that the rapture will take place in the valley of Kidron below, and that the dead on the mount will rise and walk. Thus many Jews wish to be buried here. There is a chapel that marks the place of Jesus' ascension although the bible is quite clear that this was not the place. Certainly there must have been one person from the time the chapel was built who knew this? Both books I have name the Bible verse which names the place. | ||||
| Had my first bad falafel today. I'm not even going to finish it... It is quite cold and pretty tasteless. I guess I'11 eat something else later. [Note: was this the cause of my gastro enteritis?] | ||||
| In both Greece and Israel, when you ask for orange juice you usually get Tang. Unless you get real fresh squeezed orange juice... | ||||
| The "Tower of David Museum" is highly overrated. The Citadel is cool but you can get a better look from outside. The museum is sketchy and you can get more information from practically any book about Israel or Jerusalem. The view from the high point of the museum is pretty good, better than from the roof of the Petra, I think. There is one nice bit of the citadel, slightly underground, which is cool inside (65F even in the considerable heat of day. I sat in there for perhaps 20 minutes cooling off after my hike back from the Mount of Olives to Jaffa Gate (around the city gates except from Herod's gate to Damascus Gate, where I cut through a really neat Arab neighborhood. I made two young Arabic girls burst into laughter when I responded to their quiet "hellos.") The people here who are uninvolved with money and business here actually are quite friendly and sweet. I'm now able to spot the tour guides and avoid them before they even start. There is an interesting feel to travel... Lee was right in his email: a crappy Sabbath in Tel Aviv is better than many good days at home. I wonder if I could feel this way in the states, traveling somewhere. It's like the first week of TAMS: I don't know anyone, or where anything is and it's fun just to find out. A few days later, it's fun knowing and advising people who have just arrived. Never drink all of a Turkish coffee. It's not filtered. Don't stir very much either. | ||||
| Day 15: Thursday, June 3, 1999 -- Jerusalem | ||||
| Got up a little late today (8am) and read for a bit before getting out of bed. At breakfast at my "usual" place, but this time with some folks I met at the hostel last night,who are from Canada (Manitoba I think). Walked over to the Jewish quarter and have been looking around for a few hours. The sites here are not that impressive to my gentile eyes. Many are in poor repair and there is no sense of a comprehensive history. Instead, each place represents a miniscule portion of Jewish history and there is much piecing together to do. Many of the sites are hard to find, with the signs leading you around in circles. I keep wandering into the Arab market on accident, and it is so hard to get out without turning straight around. The end always looks near but direction and distance are so hard to judge in the press of bodies with no sun visible. The streets in the souq are covered and narrow, and stepped occasionally. Every street is like another, and everyone sells the same things. There are many who sell services there also (barbers, tailors, etc) who work in a stall like the sellers where everyone can see. Some parts of the market are open to bargaining, the others are not. The clue is usually in the offered price. | ||||
| EVERYONE here has a cellular phone, even the orthodox Jews and old people. I attribute this to the general lack of "normal" phones and the sheer horror that it must be to wire buildings in a place so ancient as this. Still it is an odd sign of the times. Old Jerusalem is so quaint in all other regards that one is always surprised to see cars, "inappropriate" clothing, soldiers, etc. | ||||
| I'm sitting in Hurva Square, watching the people. Near me is a man playing saxophone, who is actually quite good. He seems to be getting a fair amount of coins. Occasionally a crowd of young children (10-15) will crowd around him, and he will play some song they know, like "Hava Nagila" and they may sing a little. Also near me is an old woman of unknown origin who is working her way through an entire watermelon. Occasionally a REALLY old woman will still a piece of it and run off, and there will be an exchange of words in Hebrew while the older woman stuffs the fruit into her mouth. There is a cat which runs it's way around the square, chasing birds, begging for scraps, etc. It is not friendly enough to pet, but it comes close and sits near people. | ||||
| The people in this country are deaf to the honking cars make. They never think it is directed at them or something because they never move or pay any attention (this applies to cars as well as people). In retaliation, the cars honk more often and longer. [Note: this is MUCH worse in Jordan and Egypt!] | ||||
| Day 16: Friday, June 4, 1999 -- Jerusalem | ||||
| I got hellaciouly sick very early this morning. I had diarrhea all day the day before, but took some medicine and felt better. At 1am I awoke with a terrible pain in my stomach. I tried to sleep, and took one of my antibiotics, but to no avail. I asked some guys at the front desk what they thought. Response ranged from "sleep it off" to "drink some beers and you'll feel better". Somehow I was not cheered by these words of wisdom, so I hired a taxi to take me to the airport. The pain in my chest was making it difficult to breathe and I feared salmonella or some other food poisoning, and feared for my life. When I got to the hospital, it took forever to get admitted. At first they just told me to sit and wait. I couldn't sit, the pain was too great so I tried to lay on a gurney. A nurse chased me off this and tried to get me to sit on the bench again. This was impossible so I laid on the floor. Eventually a security guard had pity and wheeled me to a bench in a more secluded place where I could lay down. This helped my breathing immensely. Finally they allowed me to check in. This required my passport, address of residence, etc and took forever. Finally they led me to a little partition that was to be mine for the night. I was asked a lot of questions, and ordinary diagnostics were taken; blood pressure etc. | ||||
| My blood pressure was very low, and I started projectile vomiting soon after I got there. Even when empty I continued to retch, so they put me on an several IVs: an analgesic for the pain, an anti-vomiting and diarrhea agent, and saline to raise my BP and restore fluids lost during the day. Of course much of this is surmised because they usually spoke in Hebrew (but I read my chart). I finally was able to sleep fitfully. In the morning (6am) they gave me another set of the same IVs. I figured out how to lower the back of the bed, to save _my_ back and got some real rest. When I awoke again I felt fine, as if nothing had happened. By this time the morning shift was in place including a doctor who spoke flawless English, and explained my condition. I had acute gastroentiritis.. it is normally mild and requires only a few days rest. Either the case I had was more severe or I'm just a complete American wuss. After the second set of IVs I felt much better and after so cursory BP/pulse/temp tests I was let go after demonstrating that I could stomach some hot tea without vomiting again (the tea was quite nice). After this I just went home and slept most of the day away, waking to read and drink water. | ||||
| The books I am reading of late are really good. Today I finished Eaters of the Dead by Michael Crighton, which was great. I am reading "Princess" now, which I traded EOTD for. It is from the diary and notes of a Saudi princess about the way women are treated in their country, and the various horrors the country has in general. | ||||
| After talking to a lot of travelers, I have decided to go to Jordan instead of Haifa. Many travelers here are doing the same trip as me, but in reverse, so we are able to "swap tips" as well as books or other items we may not need in the places we are going to. The population of my room has shifted in balance: we are now 2 men and 4 women. I haven't met the new women, as they came in late and have been sleeping since. | ||||
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